March 8 unk—9pm—Aliy departs UNK on ice and dirt trail to Shaktoolik

Aliy Zirkle, our new race leader, departs Unalakleet at about 8:48pm.  The sky is clear and a half moon hangs in the sky.  Yet, it seems very dark, especially as wind has picked up.  Always on the coast you have this sensation that the wind comes from the ocean, damp, penetrating.

Locals tell me that the 40 mile trail to Shaktoolik, a location notorious for wind, is on bare dirt.  Another tells me that the description is true but a sheen of ice shellacks the dirt and that the trail will be easy pulling but the tussocks and the rough terrain will make for a rough ride.  Another tells me that the Iron Dog Snow Machine race chewed up the trail and possibly gives the trail a little traction for the dogs, but advises that ice is wicked on either side of the trail rut.  Another describes stretches dirt and boulders which will be very hard pulling.  At any rate, we can conclude that no musher will be dozing or turning off headlamps to enjoy the northern lights.

Shaktoolik is situated improbably on a long spit extending from the shore into Norton Sound.   Why would a village be located here,  unprotected and vulnerable to storms off the Bering Sea?  Hunting and fishing is excellent in this location, often determined by the wind, and the inhabitants have learned to tolerate the inconvenience..  Unalakleet is windy, but Shaktoolik is a wind tunnel.  The breeze can be penetrating in Unalakleet but piercing in Shaktoolik.  It blows in Shaktoolik and every musher preplans to locate wind breaker shells in an easy access location in the sled.

One of the difficulties of the trail to Shaktoolik is a long climb inland over a small mountain range and a descent back down onto the ice before traveling on fresh water sloughs next to the long ten mile spit to Shaktoolik.  Most mushers plan on stopping in Shaktoolik for a short break because the next 50 miles of trail— which goes around Norton sound to Koyuk can be hammered by more wind and cold—requiring a strong dog team.  Often , the dogs quarter into the wind, which is uncomfortable, unrelenting, and requires resolve, especially on the part of leaders.

Aliy departs just as Aaron Burmeister arrives.

I had a chance to talk to Jeff King  in the checkpoint as he ate dinner and changed dry liners in his boots. He remarks this is the first time he has actually seen the leaders and is surprised to have caught them resting—-referring to Aliy Zirkle and Martin Buser.  He plans to stay for just two hours, having had a very strong run all the way from Nulato this morning.  “The team is so strong and I get the feeling that they are just starting to come together.”  He offered that they are eating voraciously, a fact I can confirm when I watched them chow down pounds of meat chunks and kibble in a wet mix.

King, who admits he has trouble in the last part of the race with sleep deprivation was happy with his schedule that included big rests far into the race.  “ I won’t regret taking a 24 mandatory in Ruby,” telling me that he actually feels rested and alert.

Martin Buser, obviously just rising from a nap, ambles from the musher sleeping quarter to the kitchen area.  “Man, you look refreshed,”   Martin squints his eyes and agrees that he feels great, chooses a slice of blueberry pie, and joins Jeff and me. 

Concurrently, a fan tells us that Aliy is booting dogs and ready to depart.  Another, seeing Martin with his pie comments, “My aunt made that pie from wild blueberries.”  King said, “I love blueberry pie,” but is disappointed to learn that Martin has the last slice.  “Is that preferential treatment?” queries King.

“No,” Martin replies,” you can have my crust , I always save it for last because it’s the bes,.” holding a piece of crust near his mouth.   Buser then has me hold a dog bootie while he cuts of the Velcro.  Then he holds out his hand, straightens out his broken little finger and wraps the Velcro around his ring finger and little finger as a brace.  “Now I can boot dogs.”

King departs for his dogs, his two hour rest nearly over.  He returns soon and asks a vet if she would help him put in his contacts, which she does.  “Sign a waiver and we’re good,” she laughs.

I see King going back to the dogs to boot.  Sonny Lindner suddenly reappears from hibernation and the checkpoint is once again in an agitated frenzy to pursue Aliy Zirkle.

As an afterthought, King asks, “What about the Seaveys?  I forgot about them last year and Mitch came up and beat us.”  I look at the musher board and see  Sorlie and Seavey are next in to UNK.  Can they possibly make a move?

Aliy Zirkle to Shaktoolik.  Not surprisingly, the pack of Buser, Lindner , and King in immediate pursuit.