2 p.m. Nome Wednesday—Musher Migration continues—by Joe Runyan
Musher migration continues at the Nome checkpoint, the siren blaring to all in this coastal community that another musher has arrived.
Having determined that one cannot do all things, I have to admit my impulse to run to the finish chute is gradually being extinguished. Therefore, to change up things, a wander around the Nome Community Center, acting as the Iditarod checkpoint, produces some new perspectives.
The main street conglomerate of buildings produces an interesting micro climate, noticeably warmer than a walk on the nearby ice. Bright sun light requires sun glasses, and with the wind broken by buildings and snow plowed berms actually seems warm.
From a distance I see what looks like a mother and daughter dressed in elegant and stylish kuspuks. How could I not recognize Elizabeth Nayokpuk, who I always saw at the side of the late Herbie “The Shismareff CanonBall” (Herbie, the wide smiling and popular musher passed away in 2006) and Herbie’s daughter Mary Nayokpuk? The Nayokpuks here to watch the end of the race, Dave Olson, Honorary Musher (and a really good friend of mine) and I enjoy some quick memories of a truly congenial Alaskan personality. Herbie, with his brilliant smile, was on the trail from 1973 to 1988. The first time I met Herbie was on the trail to Nulato, when at the same time, I noticed his dogs were neatly styled in seal skin, exquisitely sewn, seal skin booties.
I pointed out to Elizabeth that the only time I ever talked to Herbie Nayokpuk alone was when I saw him on the trail. Otherwise, Herbie was surrounded by his large family, five girls and two boys, and a traveling entourage that always seemed to gather. When Herbie Nayokpuk went into a restaurant, a major rearrangement of tables and chairs was required.
Elsewhere in the dog Yard
I meet Ron Levy who is shooting hands of musher personalities for the American Cancer Society’s “Give a Hand campaign.” He acted slightly disappointed when he noted that my hands were clean, a purely accidental coincidence. My mother always told me to wear clean clothes in case I was in an accident, but I am going to tell my kids to wash their hands in case you meet Ron Levy. Commenting further, he said hands can tell a remarkable story, mentioning in passing the gnarled, calloused, and sinewy hands of 4x champ Lance Mackey You can see the results on line.
Continuing to struggle with the some story lines to complete today’s blogs, I luckily have a serendipity meeting with Tim Ganzik, who is running the security in the dog yard. I have my media pass displayed prominently, but still need a check to see if it REALLY can get me in. However, he recognizes me from previous Iditarods and I get in, but not without discovering that he was recently married in the Nome dog yard. His wife, Kathleen, who Tim met six years ago in the dog care lot in Anchorage, are seen in photo above.
Emotionally, I enter the dog yard delighted with their romantic success, and begin a casual cruise of the dog yard when— to my increasing surprise, the day gets even better. Comfortably ensconsed on a straw bed is my favorite dog of the 2012 Iditarod, a giant of a dog, malemute in appearance, with a dignified square intelligent head, heavy boned. He looks like the statue of the Greek guy with his chin in the cup of his hand who is contemplating the nature of the universe. I have included a photo of this magnificent animal and determine that this husky finished a thousand miles with top ten finisher Mike Williams, Jr.
The dog yard is orderly and clean, each long gang chain line designated for individual teams. The gang chain is anchored to metal storage units which also double as storage for food straw, and musher gear. Handlers are busy cleaning the yard, fluffing up beds, and serving another snack.
Unmistakable in their green parkas, I see some old veterinary friends from my time in Nulato, including Kim Hinneman (note her photo) who was conspiculously absent from Nulato photos. The explanation is simple, a point she wanted to make, that she was working with the dogs while others were posing. Having a good time joking with the mushers and handlers, Drs. Paul Pifer, Betsy King (from Texas), and Kim Hinneman move quickly through dog teams in a now practiced review.
Honestly, I give this crew respect. They have attempted to bring under their control a constantly fluxing population of canine athletes. Each animal, now with a long history documented in the mandatory vet book, is evaluated before being released to the musher. All day long, mushers are seen loading their air kennels to be transported to the Nome airport and a shipment back to Anchorage.
The Champ, now recovered, visits his team in the dog yard
Dallas Seavey, the 2012 champ, just enters the dog yard to visit his team holding his 20 month old daughter Anna Belle, and accompanied by wife, Jen. Viewing the photo, I think you can see that Dallas is compact and athletic, a key to his success this year.
Final Thoughts
Shaktoolik continues to live to its reputation as a notorious blow hole, pinning the mid pack in the checkpoint, waiting for a lull to travel across the Norton Bay ice to Koyuk.